Inspiration behind Twenty8Twelve's AW 2013 CollectionAugust 19 2013, 15:20
The 1940’s provides the inspirational back drop for Twenty8Twelve’s Autumn Winter 2013 collection.
Andre Zucca’s propaganda photography of occupied Paris in the 1940’s and his use of vivid Agfa colour film informs a palette of navy, bright blues, camel and saturated red. The inhabitants of the Paris Zucca portrayed, the war time directive to ‘make do and mend’ and chore garments of the age are explored to produce a series of styles which combine contrasting fabrics, textures and colours. Double-faced bi-coloured wool mimics a faded lapel on a casual jacket, trimmed with a multi-coloured nepped collar. Key knitwear pieces are assembled from boiled wool, mesh knit and silk.Dresses and shirts feature angular graphic panelled stripes in multi direction to exaggerate the angular 1940’s sleeve seam. The new silhouette to emerge from the era is dissected; deployed on garments by overlaying contrasting coloured panels of ultra stretch ceramica and slub boucle, giving the illusion of an exaggerated small waist and rounded hip.
The period saw the emergence of the Zazou’s, a subculture who adopted a garish personal style in an expression of resistance and nonconformity. This reference to rebellious youth is at the heart of all twenty8twelve collections. Considered decadent and subversive the Zazous borrowed from the American zoot style, this is reinterpreted in the collection producing an oversized and long line jacket in oxblood spot boucle with tonal fur lapel, a playful dress in the same fabric which fastens in the style of a zoot jacket with chrome domed snaps sits along side this. A Zazou skirt in crisp silk is attached to a fine gauge oversized sweater, one that has the slouchyness of a teenager borrowing from her boyfriend. Check fabrics are key to the story, combined with silk grosgrain they appear on a swing style dress, a neatly cut tailored shirt, and a reversible Harrington jacket in a mod revivalist style. Double-faced sweat-shirting is tailored to form the new silhouette without the underpinnings in reference to the less structured American sportswear, this sits alongside narrow cut tie-dye leather pants.
Elsewhere super-soft pink melange wool flannel is cut into a 40’s military style uniform, with a shrunken fit jacket, exaggerated wide leg pleated pants, and multi layered trench coat. A WW2 quilted coat is recreated in cropped proportion in butter soft leather, with the internal detail applied in satin to the sleeves of a utility knit. This feminine palette of chalky greys and dirty pink in mannish looks is disturbed with the use of a vibrant pop teal, and magenta in styles more reminiscent of the glamour associated with the 1940’s, which include a dramatic cocoon coat in teal mohair wool, and a bonded pique tuxedo jacket cut with pronounced hip recalling Norman Parkinson’s iconic fashion images.Category: fashion art film Author Elsa Elphick
YADi Blogs for Twenty8TwelveFebruary 15 2013, 15:05
William Klein exhibition:
William Klein, born in 1928, was photographing in a time when people were less aware of the camera. As a result he was able to get so close to his subjects without some of them even realising. That’s how he manages to capture such amazing expressions and emotions in his subjects. I love how he describes the picture as not being a picture at all until someone walks into the frame at just the right time. It’s a bit like song writing; you don’t know what’s missing until it happens instinctively. This was by far my favourite exhibition of 2012 and it was made even more heart warming by hearing from the artist himself in a short film at the end. With such an eye for photography and fashion I can’t help but wish artists like him could be around to document the world forever.
Recording my debut album:
I've spent the last couple of weeks in the studio working on my debut album, which is due for release this summer. I'm working with Johan Hugo from 'The Very Best' as well as my long time collaborators Chris Hutchings and Ariel Rechtshaid. It's been really interesting and sometimes challenging reworking songs that you've heard many times but I have entered a new phase of creativity with Johan and we've been experimenting with some unusual sounds and samples inspired by music that we love from around the world. His studio is full of crazy African treasures and we light loads of candles and drink sugary Swedish drinks. It's like a Scandinavian grotto in the jungle.
Rehearsals for NYC:
I'm of to NYC to play two shows next week so this week has been taken up with pre production and rehearsals. I have just leaked a new song from my album called 'Unbreakable' so we were learning that for the first time - it's so exciting bringing a new song to life! If you're in NYC next week come and see us at 'Santos Party House' on 7th February and Brooklyn Bowl on 9th February. I'll be playing a show in London on my return on 19th February at The Social in London to celebrate the release of my first single 'The Blow'. Hope to see you there...
Category: music press confrere Author YADi
The Royal Albert HallNovember 16 2012, 15:07
Elgar, Verdi, Rachmaninov to Frank Sinatra and Jay-Z, Churchill, Mohammed Ali to the Queen have graced the vast black stage of the Royal Albert Hall.
It's overwhelmingly round and ornately grandiose. It's heavy crimson curtains line the entrances. Everywhere you turn there's gold leaf cornicing. People line the hall ways in their best attire. The smell of perfume fills the air. I'm giddy with excitement for tonight I get to stand on that stage and sing my butchered little heart out to four thousand people. I get to strum my guitar and perform songs I made up at 4am sitting on my bed in Dublin city. A dot in a city full of other dots. Tonight I get to shine bright. I'm not sure how this has happened but I'm grabbing the opportunity with both hands.. and feet!
Backstage there's a buzz in the air, I'm not nervous but I have butterflies. My band and I are drinking herbal concoctions to sooth the throat. We don our favorite clothes, apply and reapply make up. I pace the floor as the stage manager announces five minutes to stage time. I pace the floor a little more, stop to look at a framed picture of The Beatles performing here, I grab my guitar as the lights go down. Someone whispers 'it's your turn'.
Twenty8Twelve Walks the Par Excellence LineNovember 05 2012, 17:39
Twenty8Twelve turned heads and tails on the catwalk at London Fashion Weekend. Their new Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, reflects a chic flirtation of the Sixties. Just hours before the show starts, the collection is hung in lines of demure wonder. The models are transported back to times of freedom, peace and love. Hair is set to beehive styles and combed to accompaniment. The bustle of wild excitement hangs. The audience arrive and eagerly wait. Time is playful and sweet. The music begins, escalating the mood to a magnetic siren of awe. Feet, legs, hands in long draping pockets, move in alluring speed. Feminine frills and immaculate collar lines combine to dazzle. Matching twinsets, making the audience blush with pleasure. Embracing Autumn’s colder evenings and darker nights. Twenty8Twelve’s quintessentially English knit, is set to warm the hearts all this winter. Emerald greens and pencil skirts for every occasion. Twist and brush past…
Photography taken by Daisy Walker.
Artist Heath Lowndes - Talks to Twenty8Twelve UnheardSeptember 12 2012, 10:47
‘Around the Corner in Darkness’ - By Greta Bellamacina
Federation of British Artists presents Heath Lowndes; plucked from his 2012 art degree show at Brighton University and placed in the prestigious Threadneedle Space in the Mall Galleries. Heath’s work has caused quite a storm amongst art lovers and non-lovers alike. His oil painting, ‘Around the Corner in Darkness’, is reminiscent of a bay of mystery. A dance in the trees. A painting of both strong commitments to the wild desire of the night amongst lived tales, remote from any other neither told nor sold to the day. Flooding to a first glance of a dream. The towering trees seem to be in motion, flying by like a bike ride through dawn.
Heath describes his main influences as “horror movies and pagan mythologies”. This could describe the succession of dark layers in his latest collection of ‘day and night in the forest’ paintings. Heath plans to travel to India in the New Year to discover the Vedas, an ancient form of storytelling. Lost in both language and population, a philosophical lyric combined with hymns.
Heath has an awareness of the challenges he must overcome as an artist; he talks freely about his agony with his latest collection of paintings, wanting to “translate moving imagery into his oil paintings”. He describes his most creatively rewarding time in Canada, “being disconnected in a small town in winter, with a 24-hour studio and isolated social life”. Heath reveals that like most industries, the art market has become a sanctuary of fame and money. He recently wrote an article on the ambiguity of pricing art, controversy questioning the significance and value of the art world. Concluding that an artist makes their value sometimes regardless of talent.
Like most things moving, Heath has been asked to showcase his work in a pop-up show on Rivington Street, East London, on 1-5th of November. Heath’s direct trust with painting is an on going tale born in eyes similar to ours. Young and real.
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