Inspiration behind Twenty8Twelve's AW 2013 CollectionAugust 19 2013, 15:20
The 1940’s provides the inspirational back drop for Twenty8Twelve’s Autumn Winter 2013 collection.
Andre Zucca’s propaganda photography of occupied Paris in the 1940’s and his use of vivid Agfa colour film informs a palette of navy, bright blues, camel and saturated red. The inhabitants of the Paris Zucca portrayed, the war time directive to ‘make do and mend’ and chore garments of the age are explored to produce a series of styles which combine contrasting fabrics, textures and colours. Double-faced bi-coloured wool mimics a faded lapel on a casual jacket, trimmed with a multi-coloured nepped collar. Key knitwear pieces are assembled from boiled wool, mesh knit and silk.Dresses and shirts feature angular graphic panelled stripes in multi direction to exaggerate the angular 1940’s sleeve seam. The new silhouette to emerge from the era is dissected; deployed on garments by overlaying contrasting coloured panels of ultra stretch ceramica and slub boucle, giving the illusion of an exaggerated small waist and rounded hip.
The period saw the emergence of the Zazou’s, a subculture who adopted a garish personal style in an expression of resistance and nonconformity. This reference to rebellious youth is at the heart of all twenty8twelve collections. Considered decadent and subversive the Zazous borrowed from the American zoot style, this is reinterpreted in the collection producing an oversized and long line jacket in oxblood spot boucle with tonal fur lapel, a playful dress in the same fabric which fastens in the style of a zoot jacket with chrome domed snaps sits along side this. A Zazou skirt in crisp silk is attached to a fine gauge oversized sweater, one that has the slouchyness of a teenager borrowing from her boyfriend. Check fabrics are key to the story, combined with silk grosgrain they appear on a swing style dress, a neatly cut tailored shirt, and a reversible Harrington jacket in a mod revivalist style. Double-faced sweat-shirting is tailored to form the new silhouette without the underpinnings in reference to the less structured American sportswear, this sits alongside narrow cut tie-dye leather pants.
Elsewhere super-soft pink melange wool flannel is cut into a 40’s military style uniform, with a shrunken fit jacket, exaggerated wide leg pleated pants, and multi layered trench coat. A WW2 quilted coat is recreated in cropped proportion in butter soft leather, with the internal detail applied in satin to the sleeves of a utility knit. This feminine palette of chalky greys and dirty pink in mannish looks is disturbed with the use of a vibrant pop teal, and magenta in styles more reminiscent of the glamour associated with the 1940’s, which include a dramatic cocoon coat in teal mohair wool, and a bonded pique tuxedo jacket cut with pronounced hip recalling Norman Parkinson’s iconic fashion images.Category: fashion art film Author Elsa Elphick
Twenty8Twelve Walks the Par Excellence LineNovember 05 2012, 17:39
Twenty8Twelve turned heads and tails on the catwalk at London Fashion Weekend. Their new Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, reflects a chic flirtation of the Sixties. Just hours before the show starts, the collection is hung in lines of demure wonder. The models are transported back to times of freedom, peace and love. Hair is set to beehive styles and combed to accompaniment. The bustle of wild excitement hangs. The audience arrive and eagerly wait. Time is playful and sweet. The music begins, escalating the mood to a magnetic siren of awe. Feet, legs, hands in long draping pockets, move in alluring speed. Feminine frills and immaculate collar lines combine to dazzle. Matching twinsets, making the audience blush with pleasure. Embracing Autumn’s colder evenings and darker nights. Twenty8Twelve’s quintessentially English knit, is set to warm the hearts all this winter. Emerald greens and pencil skirts for every occasion. Twist and brush past…
Photography taken by Daisy Walker.
Underground Sensation of SohoJuly 23 2012, 10:37
A Poetic Review
by Greta Bellamacina (photos by Jacob Perlmutter)
The slanting streets of Soho disappear in and out of diffused light. A reality of the night, dampened into the electrifying mystery of the day. Sunken back streets play a fable to a time of blasting mayhem. Milk & Honey a windowless secret, serving pink ladies to interlacing strangers. The taste transcends sweet elegance and a comforting getaway from the cascading roads of central London. Masked in a coloured chameleon dress from Twenty8Twelve, casts a wild underground sensation from a quite corner of Soho.
A passing in Soho
An endless void,
For pink ladies, double. Flowerless.
A number, no door.
To cross worlds of broken silences,
Infatuation vaporised. In these vacant times,
Time to turn inwards.
To see how those intervals crazed thee.
In dwellings of,
A reading from “Kaleidoscope”- selected poems at The BridgeJuly 15 2012, 14:48
A Poetic Review
By Greta Bellamacina (photos by Lily More)
In a shadowed corner of East London, The Bridge saloon bar curtained, entrapping the bizarre. Vaporising sound. Blinding out all but curiosity. A toy kingdom of furniture, framing a Venetian edge to what seems to be the entering of the wild fringes of fantasy. A poetry reading unfolds between friends. Interludes within words, settling in a cave of existence. A simple connection between beauty and the intrigue, increasing minds in thoughts and space. Antiquities with eyes and handles stare out from collecting corners. Words smile, and the distant memory of the world beyond seems as grey as the colour. Drinking coffee from Turkish china, philosophy and passion smokes the air. And the memory of ‘love before you love it’ chimes in the moment. Poised in elegant French fancy dresses from Twenty8Twelve depicts the poet’s corner.
Love Before You Love It
Inside the violet livings,
A night veined the fantastic. A first,
Pinned-up and plastic statued.
Expecting satin but found Paris in a room.
She the lady-love, hammocked
A fantasy in the surpassing
Chop of naked reality. Wet eyed
Love. And love before you love it,
Swell it up and fall, over.
Choke at the missing point. And swallow
Love. Love before you love it, a
Living. Turned and spined,
Into the centre point,
Piece of pineapples and pears.
Cast-cut of an exotica is only
Bold in spoken reality. Thoughts are not
Truths beyond the table. Fluent and dressed
She is gone.
Greta with fellow poet Daisy Walker
A London Excursion to the British SeasideJuly 09 2012, 22:07
Situated to the south west of London, an elegant blend of old England is merged along the sand-lit town of Bournemouth. A town draped in white laced cliffs. A mere two hours from the chaos of London, sits a simple romance. Almost in dust form an array of fishermen coat the pier, as the inhaling ocean fills the gaps in the sand. Cycling in twos, an off-beat magic retires along the costal roads. Pastel washed beach huts tease the eye, in a laidback row of colour. All this, when sheltering from the unpredictable weather known as the British rain. The old Print Room Teahouse, inspiring a nostalgic mix of the old music hall tradition. It beckons a taste of all things sweet and theatrical, yet understated and timeless. The tea and scones procuring warm hands to heart. Dressed in Twenty8twelve sundresses and knit, captures a postcard framing the British seaside.
This sawdust corner
Lyrical and sundry, pristine orange.
Is but a slide of the
Effect that the night felt.
She fell for a man,
Who filled her with sand.
Dressing her in a lemon skinned
Dress, casting currents
Alone on the beach side.
Repaired in the milk stoned
Shore. Free swinging sand sun
Caught in their shoes.
Hitching her hem, in to a
Sea flowering, water occurred, settling.
Cascades of outpouring silver.
Shelled and fanning,
An outlook for a beach hut.
Became a passing sigh.
Category: fashion art confrere Author Greta Bellamacina
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