Inspiration behind Twenty8Twelve's AW 2013 CollectionAugust 19 2013, 15:20
The 1940’s provides the inspirational back drop for Twenty8Twelve’s Autumn Winter 2013 collection.
Andre Zucca’s propaganda photography of occupied Paris in the 1940’s and his use of vivid Agfa colour film informs a palette of navy, bright blues, camel and saturated red. The inhabitants of the Paris Zucca portrayed, the war time directive to ‘make do and mend’ and chore garments of the age are explored to produce a series of styles which combine contrasting fabrics, textures and colours. Double-faced bi-coloured wool mimics a faded lapel on a casual jacket, trimmed with a multi-coloured nepped collar. Key knitwear pieces are assembled from boiled wool, mesh knit and silk.Dresses and shirts feature angular graphic panelled stripes in multi direction to exaggerate the angular 1940’s sleeve seam. The new silhouette to emerge from the era is dissected; deployed on garments by overlaying contrasting coloured panels of ultra stretch ceramica and slub boucle, giving the illusion of an exaggerated small waist and rounded hip.
The period saw the emergence of the Zazou’s, a subculture who adopted a garish personal style in an expression of resistance and nonconformity. This reference to rebellious youth is at the heart of all twenty8twelve collections. Considered decadent and subversive the Zazous borrowed from the American zoot style, this is reinterpreted in the collection producing an oversized and long line jacket in oxblood spot boucle with tonal fur lapel, a playful dress in the same fabric which fastens in the style of a zoot jacket with chrome domed snaps sits along side this. A Zazou skirt in crisp silk is attached to a fine gauge oversized sweater, one that has the slouchyness of a teenager borrowing from her boyfriend. Check fabrics are key to the story, combined with silk grosgrain they appear on a swing style dress, a neatly cut tailored shirt, and a reversible Harrington jacket in a mod revivalist style. Double-faced sweat-shirting is tailored to form the new silhouette without the underpinnings in reference to the less structured American sportswear, this sits alongside narrow cut tie-dye leather pants.
Elsewhere super-soft pink melange wool flannel is cut into a 40’s military style uniform, with a shrunken fit jacket, exaggerated wide leg pleated pants, and multi layered trench coat. A WW2 quilted coat is recreated in cropped proportion in butter soft leather, with the internal detail applied in satin to the sleeves of a utility knit. This feminine palette of chalky greys and dirty pink in mannish looks is disturbed with the use of a vibrant pop teal, and magenta in styles more reminiscent of the glamour associated with the 1940’s, which include a dramatic cocoon coat in teal mohair wool, and a bonded pique tuxedo jacket cut with pronounced hip recalling Norman Parkinson’s iconic fashion images.Category: fashion art film Author Elsa Elphick
Ed van der Elsken: Love on the Left BankApril 04 2012, 13:59
First published in 1954, Love on the Left Bank follows the fictional story of Ann, a bohemian living in Paris. It is one of the first photographic books to record the birth of rebellious youth culture in Europe.
The muse Vali Myers immortalised in the streets and bars of a bohemian Paris was an Australian artist by nature; she also was the tattooist responsible for the lightning bolt (in honor of Crazy Horse) on Patti Smith's knee.
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