Inspiration behind Twenty8Twelve's AW 2013 CollectionAugust 19 2013, 15:20
The 1940’s provides the inspirational back drop for Twenty8Twelve’s Autumn Winter 2013 collection.
Andre Zucca’s propaganda photography of occupied Paris in the 1940’s and his use of vivid Agfa colour film informs a palette of navy, bright blues, camel and saturated red. The inhabitants of the Paris Zucca portrayed, the war time directive to ‘make do and mend’ and chore garments of the age are explored to produce a series of styles which combine contrasting fabrics, textures and colours. Double-faced bi-coloured wool mimics a faded lapel on a casual jacket, trimmed with a multi-coloured nepped collar. Key knitwear pieces are assembled from boiled wool, mesh knit and silk.Dresses and shirts feature angular graphic panelled stripes in multi direction to exaggerate the angular 1940’s sleeve seam. The new silhouette to emerge from the era is dissected; deployed on garments by overlaying contrasting coloured panels of ultra stretch ceramica and slub boucle, giving the illusion of an exaggerated small waist and rounded hip.
The period saw the emergence of the Zazou’s, a subculture who adopted a garish personal style in an expression of resistance and nonconformity. This reference to rebellious youth is at the heart of all twenty8twelve collections. Considered decadent and subversive the Zazous borrowed from the American zoot style, this is reinterpreted in the collection producing an oversized and long line jacket in oxblood spot boucle with tonal fur lapel, a playful dress in the same fabric which fastens in the style of a zoot jacket with chrome domed snaps sits along side this. A Zazou skirt in crisp silk is attached to a fine gauge oversized sweater, one that has the slouchyness of a teenager borrowing from her boyfriend. Check fabrics are key to the story, combined with silk grosgrain they appear on a swing style dress, a neatly cut tailored shirt, and a reversible Harrington jacket in a mod revivalist style. Double-faced sweat-shirting is tailored to form the new silhouette without the underpinnings in reference to the less structured American sportswear, this sits alongside narrow cut tie-dye leather pants.
Elsewhere super-soft pink melange wool flannel is cut into a 40’s military style uniform, with a shrunken fit jacket, exaggerated wide leg pleated pants, and multi layered trench coat. A WW2 quilted coat is recreated in cropped proportion in butter soft leather, with the internal detail applied in satin to the sleeves of a utility knit. This feminine palette of chalky greys and dirty pink in mannish looks is disturbed with the use of a vibrant pop teal, and magenta in styles more reminiscent of the glamour associated with the 1940’s, which include a dramatic cocoon coat in teal mohair wool, and a bonded pique tuxedo jacket cut with pronounced hip recalling Norman Parkinson’s iconic fashion images.Category: fashion art film Author Elsa Elphick
A Tapestry Woodland- In The WoodsOctober 04 2012, 15:36
In The Woods Festival from Twenty8Twelve on Vimeo.
A Poetic Review
By Greta Bellamacina
‘In The Woods’ festival is an enchanting one-day festival, but actually it is a truly one-off festival. So intriguing is it, it makes for a paradise of slanting trees and whispering lights. Origami and simmering voices ink the beautiful pathways and wood-laced coves of the British countryside. It captures a magical trance. Fates written on paper wishing trees, a tapestry woodland where poetry and spoken word stages are hushed into tombs of timeless thought. The band highlights include, Fiction, AlunaGeorge and Alt-J. Music. Dancing fabricates the lingering brambled night, as the last beats of summer seduce the first moments of September. Just as the night floats by, a bonfire is lit to luminous flames, emanating glittering luminous lunacies to the new season.
Twenty8Twelve UnheardSeptember 03 2012, 11:12
Joe Fox - Young Hearts from Twenty8Twelve on Vimeo.
Joe Fox InterviewBy Greta Bellamacina
Young Hearts are a London based band. Joe Fox is the lead singer, Hugo plays the base, Christian plays lead guitarist/vocals and Jasper plays the drums. The Young Hearts can safely be described as young at heart as well as hearts to the young-boisterous in their articulation and adventure. Joe Fox’s voice is a slow blend between Ray Davies and John Lennon. Joe captures a daring intimacy with lyrics and sound. Pete Docherty noticed Joe’s ash like magic and they ended up collaborating, causing electric chaos on the London gig scene. He described his favourite complement is when ‘people detach lyrics from his songs… a Japanese girl came up to me last week after a gig and shared the same feeling for the song line… regardless of the barriers between languages and worlds- which is quite amazing’. Joe has confided in me the mirrored negative and positive aspect about being in a band. He explained that it is such a capricious career, that you have to love it to do it and be prepared to create, regardless of failure or fame. Young Hearts are inspired by bands such as Radio Head, Rolling Stones and Nirvana. Their debut single, will be out at the end of this year entitled: Isolation. For further information you can go to http://www.facebook.com/pages/Younghearts. You can also catch the Young Hearts perform at the Oxfam Festival on the 25th September, 2012.
Minds Black and WhiteJuly 26 2012, 12:10
Minds Black and White from Twenty8Twelve on Vimeo.
“An expression of words reeling the fantasy of poetry. An innocent portrayal of two parts, playing with unknowing pretences and positions. A progression of intimacy, where the mood reflects a collision that is only ‘accidental when realised’, illustrated when their hands touch. And the reality creeps into their playful state, withdrawing them back to the social norm of silence”. – Chloe Primrose Pemberton.
“Interludes between two minds, black and white, passing between notes in moments of chance.” – Greta Bellamacina
Directed By: Chloe Primrose Pemberton
Featuring: Greta Bellamacina
Make-up Artist: Karen Beadle
Assistant cinema photographer: Eve Mahoney
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